Fishing on the Upper West Side
Fresh fish is to some a delicacy and to others, cat food. On the Upper West Side of Manhattan, fish has always been a food group to cultivate, sell and lay bragging rights to.Partly because of my own experience as a life long Upper West sider, and my Jewish heritage, finding the freshest fish is an ongoing quest passed on from generation to generation, fish monger to customer. Though this now affluent area of Manhattan has transcended its previously bohemian aura, riding a wave of soaring property values and sushi joints, old and new residents alike share an affinity for the wide offerings of fresh fish from these remaining institutions and appreciates the cultural value that they bring to the neighborhood.
The contenders:
Barney Greengrass
541 Amsterdam Ave
New York, NY 10024
(212) 724-4707
www.barneygreengrass.com
Known as “The Sturgeon King,” Barney’s has been faithfully dispensing turn of the century charm and delicious fish since 1908. Home of smooth slices of nova and lox piled high on bagels, kippers and herring, as well as a homey restaurant, Barney Greengrass is a neighborhood institution and has a distinction of being both a fish shop and a small restaurant. Frequented today by celebrities like Jerry Seinfeld and other area notables, Barney Greengrass is busier than ever; lines snake out the door on Sunday as people queue for a taste of the old world and the chance to experience one of the last independent fish sellers from their grandparents’ days.
Zabar’s
245 W 80th St
New York, NY 10024
(212) 787-2000
www.zabars.com
Zabar’s began life as an “Appetizing” counter in a supermarket. Today a massive Broadway destination, the lifeblood of this fine foods brand still flows through the veins of its fish counter. The secret here is the paper thin sliced lox, which the countermen will still offer as samples to anxious purchasers. Take a number and try to focus as the never-ending stream of tourists, area residents and aficionados of everything digestible shuffle past you. Don’t worry, salvation is only a pound of delicious salmon (at roughly $42.00) away. Zabar’s also stocks a stunning selection of cheeses, coffee, breads, meats and housewares as well.
Citarella
2135 Broadway
New York, NY 10023
212-874-0383
www.citarella.com
Though the crowds at Citarella can approach jam-packed levels, especially after work, many brave the melee for the freshest cuts of tasty fish from some of the most knowledgeable countermen this side of the Atlantic. A pound of salmon runs about $35.00. Honored by a #1 rating from Zagat for fresh and smoked fish, shellfish and caviar, Citarella expanded to a second floor where it also sells spices, olive oils, meats and household items in addition to its wide proffering of trout, halibut, sable and sturgeon.
Murray’s Sturgeon Shop
2429 Broadway
New York, NY 10024
212-724-2650
At only 1100 square feet, Murray’s makes up in quality what it lacks in space. A single counter running the left side of the business displays the melt in your mouth sable, and fresh whitefish, salmon and other offerings. Highly rated by Zagat, and open since 1946, Murray’s is a place people love because it reminds them of when times were easy and the fish as good as if was freshly caught. Mostly a neighborhood icon, Murray’s does not see many tourists, as they prefer Zabar’s only a half mile downtown but to community denizens, we would not have it any other way.
posted by UpperWestSideGuy @ 11:01 PM
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